
A sparkling weekend in Champagne: Épernay, Aÿ and beyond
A weekend from Reims: a small train through Mercier’s chalk cellars, de Venoge and Veuve Clicquot in the glass, and the growers in Aÿ I ran out of time to visit.
Walks and weekends in Champagne and Chablis, where chalk and limestone shape what ends up in the glass.

A weekend from Reims: a small train through Mercier’s chalk cellars, de Venoge and Veuve Clicquot in the glass, and the growers in Aÿ I ran out of time to visit.

I tasted my way through seven Chablis cellars and learned how a few metres of slope, from windy Petit Chablis plateaus to the grand cru amphitheatre, change the glass.